What would it take to get you into near-freezing water in the middle of an Icelandic winter? A dare? A once-in-a-lifetime thrill? How about the chance to literally float between two continents? Snorkelling the Silfra Fissure isnโt your typical tropical reef getaway. There are no clownfish. No palm trees. And the water? Just above freezing. But what you do get is something far rarer: a front-row seat to a geological marvelโso otherworldly, you half-expect to bump into a strange alien life form mid-float.
It’s one of those things that if you’re there, you’ve got to do it. It’s unique, its awe-inspiring and, most importantly, its fun.
Silfra sits in รingvellir National Park, right where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates are slowly drifting apart. And itโs the only place on the planet where you can snorkelโor diveโbetween them. Itโs like nature carved out a rift just to mess with our sense of scale. Think: Lord of the Rings meets National Geographic.
I went on a clear winter day, the kind that makes you feel like youโve stepped into a snow globe. Everything was blanketed in white, the sun hanging low, casting long golden shadows across the ice-dusted lava fields. It was breathtaking. And freezing. But mostly breathtaking.
After a friendly briefing from the local guides (who, by the way, have perfected the art of making you feel both excited and safe), we wrestled into our dry suits. Picture: thermal base layers, full-body suit, neoprene gloves, hood, snorkel mask. Itโs like gearing up for battleโif the enemy is hypothermia and existential awe. If you’ve never worn a dry suit before be prepared for its tightness around the neck – it has to be a tight fit to maintain the seal and stop the water coming in. Some people feel claustrophobic with this and the tightness of the neoprene hood. Just take a few deep breaths and give yourself time to adjust to the sensation.
You’re also changing in often sub-freezing temperatures on the open car park. Make sure you’ve got on your thermal top, bottom and socks on under your clothes when you arrive – its makes changing a little warmer and a lot less embarrassing. It also will help keep you that little bit warmer.
Hereโs the wild part: as soon as your face hits the water, the cold disappears. Really. Itโs like your brain switches off everything except wonder. The visibility in Silfra is insaneโup to 100 meters. Thatโs thanks to glacial meltwater thatโs spent decades filtering through volcanic rock, becoming so pure you can drink it mid-snorkel. (Yes, I did. Intentionally.)
Snorkelling the Silfra fissure feels more like flying than swimming. There is no real need to swim, more guided drifting along its length. The water is so clear itโs hard to tell where the surface ends and the abyss begins. Walls of black volcanic rock stretch beneath you, framed by electric-green algae that looks straight out of a sci-fi movie. The current carries you silently through cathedral-like chambers with names like โThe Big Crackโ and โSilfra Hall.โ
Each section of the fissure offers a new kind of majesty. The Big Crack is narrow and deepโimagine threading a needle between continents. The Cathedral feels like swimming through a vast hallway of light and stone. And the final section, the Lagoon, gives you space to just float and absorb it all before heading back to the surface. As we climbed out of the lagoon our guide was there to undo the zips on the back of our dry suits. Apparently if they don’t do it immediately they freeze up the time you’ve covered the 300 metre walk back to the car park. Once free of the suits there are cookies and a very welcome hot chocolate to coax life back into those fingers..
Letโs talk about the cold.
Yes, your face goes numb. Your guide will tell you that its not uncommon for your lips to go so numb that its hard to keep a grip on your snorkel. You have to bite on small grips with your teeth. Yes, your fingers tingle and numb up. You are taught how to float with your hands held up in the small of your back, rather like an elderly relative standing in front of an open fireplace. This keeps them out of the water and warmer than if immersed for the whole experience. You are shown how to roll onto your back, a feat made easier by the buoyancy given by the dry suits, so you can take a short breather.
It sounds like you’re going to freeze. But honestly? It becomes part of the story. Like climbing a mountain or finishing a marathon, the discomfort fadesโbut the memory of doing something extraordinary sticks. Snorkelling the Silfra fissure deserves to be put on the list of life achievements, as well as life highlights.
Snorkelling Silfra isnโt about tropical beauty or spotting sea turtles. Itโs about perspective. Youโre floating between the massive plates that shaped the world as we know it. And for a few surreal moments, youโre suspended in time and spaceโweightless, wide-eyed, and completely awestruck.
So, if you find yourself in Iceland and someone asks if you want to jump into a frozen rift?
Say yes. Say it without hesitation. Because the cold only lasts a moment. But the memory? That stays with you forever.
FAQs
What is the Silfra Fissure?
The Silfra Fissure is a rift formed by the divergent boundary between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. As the plates slowly move apartโabout 2 centimetres per yearโthe Earthโs crust fractures, creating fissures like Silfra. It was formed following a major earthquake in 1789 and continues to widen gradually over time. The fissure is part of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, which runs through Iceland. Silfra is filled with glacial meltwater filtered through volcanic rock, but geologically, it represents an active, visible boundary between two continental platesโan extraordinary example of plate tectonics in action.
Where is the Silfra Fissure?
The Silfra Fissure is in Iceland. To reach the Silfra Fissure, youโll first need to get to รingvellir National Park, which is about a 45-minute drive from Reykjavรญk. Most visitors travel by car, taking Route 36 (รingvallavegur), which is well-signposted and paved. Thereโs a car park near the Silfra dive site, and from there, it’s a short walk to the fissure.
If you donโt have a car, several tour companies offer guided snorkelling or diving trips that include transport from Reykjavรญk. These tours typically include all necessary equipment and a certified guide.
รingvellir is part of the Golden Circle route, so itโs easy to include in a day trip. There is also a regular bus service to the location .
Do I need to bring any special equipment with me to snorkel the Silfra Fissure?
You donโt need to bring your own special equipment to snorkel the Silfra Fissureโtour operators provide everything you need. This typically includes:
- A drysuit to keep you warm and dry in the near-freezing water (2โ4ยฐC)
- A thermal undersuit worn beneath the drysuit for insulation
- Mask and snorkel
- Fins and gloves
- Hood
Because the water is so cold, a drysuit certification is required for diving, but not for snorkelling. However, you must be comfortable in cold water, have basic swimming skills, and meet age/health requirements (usually age 12+, some restrictions apply). Tour companies give a full safety briefing and help you suit up on site.
Tour details:
Robert snorkelled the Silfra fissure with Arctic Adventures, an Icelandic tour operator who’ve been running tours across Iceland since 1983. The tour, which took 2 and a half hours, cost him ISK 20,490, including the entrance fee to the National Park. This included all the necessary equipment which was all in excellent condition.