I was recently in Exeter for my son’s graduation and, rather than paying the premium prices for city-centre hotels and Airbnbs during grad week, we opted to stay in Topsham for two nights. Nestled on the banks of the River Exe, Topsham is the perfect spot for a short break or a day trip from Exeter.
Once a busy port town, this charming village blends history, wildlife, and foodie culture with a relaxed riverside vibe. With its estuary walks, birdwatching reserves, and independent shops, Topsham is a fantastic base for anyone who wants to enjoy Devon’s natural beauty at a slower pace.
Exploring the Village
Start by wandering Fore Street, Topsham’s main high street, where you’ll find independent shops, cosy cafes, and art galleries. The town’s maritime past is evident in the Dutch-style merchant houses that line the streets.
Don’t miss The Goat Walk, a short riverside promenade with wonderful views of the Exe estuary, especially at high tide. Look out for the blue plaque commemorating Dick “Pincher” Pym – the fisherman-turned-footballer and lifelong Topsham resident. It’s near Trout’s Boatyard and marks the spot where he “fished from here.”
Take the Ferry or Hire a Bike
Topsham has two ferries worth exploring.
The first ferry is run by the county council and leaves from the slipway near The Passage House Inn, crossing to the lock on the opposite side. Tickets cost £2 each way (foot passenger fare; check current times). At the time of our visit, it ran from 11am to 5pm.
The ferryman – a former marine turned merchant sailor – entertained us with stories of travelling the world and sleeping in the jungles of Belize without incident, but also confessed he almost lost his thumb to an adder bite right here in Topsham! A reminder to keep an eye out for snakes basking on the towpath during warm days.
The towpath itself is a joy to explore, with a walking path next to the canal and a tarmac cycle path running below. Occasionally the two merge, for example, at the bridge over the railway track heading towards Powderham Castle, so watch out for speedy cyclists.
Where to Go from the Lock
- Walk towards Powderham Castle and The Turf – a gentle estuary walk leading to the historic castle and the much-loved Turf Hotel, a riverside pub with a gorgeous garden.
- Walk towards Exeter – head in the opposite direction towards the M5 bridge and the popular Double Locks pub.
- Cycle the Exe Estuary Trail – bike hire is available in Topsham, allowing you to ride towards Exmouth or back into Exeter along scenic canal paths.
The second ferry, the Topsham to Turf Ferry, is a small, traditional wooden boat that ferries passengers directly across the River Exe to The Turf at Turf Lock. The trip takes about 15 minutes and costs around £7 each way. Always check the website for the latest times and fares.
Birdwatching at RSPB Bowling Green Marsh
Just a short stroll from Fore Street lies Bowling Green Marsh, a superb RSPB nature reserve. It’s especially rewarding in winter when thousands of migrating waders and wildfowl flock to the estuary. There’s a well-positioned bird hide for keen spotters, but even a brief visit offers peaceful views of the wetlands.
Lunch on the River
Whether you’ve been walking or cycling, The Turf is a must-stop for lunch. Opened in 1837, it still has a faded Victorian charm. Its huge riverside terrace offers unbeatable estuary views – perfect for a pint of local ale and something fresh and simple. We enjoyed sharing the mackerel pâté while watching oyster catchers and curlews on the shore.
If you’re staying on the Topsham side, there are plenty of options within the village. The River Exe Café, a floating restaurant run by the Craven family, is another highlight of this area and perfect for a special occasion. Open from April to September, it’s famous for its seafood and location. It’s incredibly popular – we’ve been trying for three years but have never managed to get a table!
The café is reached via water taxi from Exmouth, but you can also walk to Starcross via the towpath opposite Topsham and catch the Starcross ferry over to Exmouth.
Afternoon: Quayside Drinks & Shopping
Back in Topsham, enjoy a relaxed drink on the quay. The Lighter Inn and The Passage House Inn are both perfect for people-watching and soaking up the riverside atmosphere.
Afterwards, browse Topsham’s antique shops, boutiques, and galleries, or, if you’re there on a weekend, check out the antiques market near the quay.
Evening: Dinner by the Water
Topsham has a well-deserved reputation as a foodie hub. For a relaxed evening meal, try:
- The Lighter Inn – casual dining right on the quay. Outdoor heaters make this appealing on a breezy evening. Good atmosphere inside.
- The Passage House Inn – good fish and chips and wonderful estuary views. Quite a lot of seating right on the water.
- The South West Pizza Co. – delicious pizzas using local producers and in-house cured salami.
We also walked past Topsham Wine Cellar, which looked incredibly cosy with candles and groups sharing platters – a place I’ll make sure to try next time.
One street back from the water, you’ll find even more places to eat including:
- The Globe
- The Galley Restaurant
- Mesita Tapas
- The Salutation Inn (complete with wet fish counter)
- The Old Fire Station
- The Lord Nelson
Plenty remains of the famous “Topsham Ten” – the village’s historic collection of pubs and inns.
Practicalities for Visiting Topsham
Getting there: Topsham is just 10 minutes by train from Exeter St Davids or Exeter Central, with the station only a 5-minute walk from Fore Street. Trains are regular and affordable.
Parking: Much of Topsham’s on-street parking is permit-only. Fore Street allows 1-hour free parking (Mon-Sat, 9am–5pm), but spaces are in high demand. Pay-and-display car parks are available at Topsham Quay, Holman Way (High Street), and near the station, with rates from around £3.40 for 2 hours.
Accommodation: We stayed for 2 nights in the heart of the village at an Airbnb and loved being close to both Exeter and Darts Farm – the Farm Shop of the Year 2025, just a few minutes’ drive away. Airbnbs, boutique B&Bs, and pubs with rooms are all on offer.
Why Choose Topsham Over Exeter?
Topsham offers all the charm of Exeter’s historic quayside but with a calmer, more village-like atmosphere. With the Exe Estuary on your doorstep, scenic walks, wildlife reserves, and excellent food options, it’s a brilliant alternative for a relaxed weekend or day trip.
