by Nkosana Samuel Maphomolo
Longlisted – PureTravel Writing Competition 2024
The tiny landlocked Kingdom of Lesotho, nestled in the breathtaking scenery of southern Africa, is a known hidden gem with majestic mountain scenery and unspoiled wilderness. Our journey through this mountain paradise began in the capital Maseru on a cool winter morning. The air was filled with anticipation for adventure as we loaded our gear into the sturdy 4×4, ready to tackle the snow-capped peaks and winding roads of the “Kingdom in the Sky”.
As we left Maseru, the landscape quickly changed. The bustling town has given way to vast rolling hills, dotted with traditional Basotho huts. The landscape is a vibrant mosaic of earthy tones: browns, greens, and the occasional splash of bright orange from flowering aloes. The road, though rough and unpaved, took us deeper into Lesotho, where the real adventure awaited us.
Our first major destination was the Sani Pass, a famous mountain pass that connects Lesotho to South Africa. As we approached the foot of the pass, the scenery became more and more dramatic. Towering cliffs loomed above us, their rugged faces eroded by centuries of time. Snow-capped mountains rose in the distance, icy peaks glistening in the morning sun. The road, now a narrow dirt track, began to climb steeply, winding and twisting as it headed deeper into the mountains.
The climb to Sani Pass was an exhilarating experience. The road wound precariously, offering sweeping views of the valley below at every turn. The higher we climbed, the colder it became, and soon we found ourselves surrounded by a winter wonderland. Snow covered the ground and icicles dangled from the edges of jutting rocks. The air was fresh and light, filled with the scent of pine and the faint scent of wood smoke wafting from distant villages.
Halfway through, we encountered a series of hairpin bends that tested both our driving skills and our nerves. The road was barely wide enough for our car to cling to the mountainside, with a sheer drop on one side and a sheer cliff on the other. As we rounded a particularly dangerous bend, our tires lost traction on the icy surface, sending us skidding dangerously close to the edge. With our hearts racing, we struggled to regain control and, with a collective sigh of relief, continued our climb.
At the top of Sani Pass, we were rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views. The landscape stretched out before us like a majestic natural spectacle. The snow-capped peaks towered majestically against the blue sky, their jagged silhouettes softened by a blanket of white. Below, the valley was a tapestry of frozen rivers and rolling hills, interspersed with clusters of traditional Basotho huts. It was as if we had entered another world, untouched by time.
From Sani Pass, our journey continues deeper into the mountains. The road winds through remote valleys and high mountain passes, each bend revealing new and dramatic vistas. We follow the Maletsunyane River, its icy waters rushing through rugged terrain. The river, with its steep cliffs and dense forests, carves a path through the mountains, creating a series of spectacular waterfalls along the way. The most impressive of these is the Maletsunyane Falls, where the river plunges more than 180 metres into a deep gorge, creating a mist that shimmers in the sunlight.
Although the scenery was beautiful, the journey was not without its pitfalls. The rugged and isolated terrain meant that help was often far away and any incident could quickly escalate into a serious situation. Our first major challenge was attempting to cross a particularly swollen river. Recent snowfall had raised the water level and the usually shallow ford had now become a raging torrent. Determined to push on, we decided to push on but halfway through our journey our vehicle became stuck in the icy water. The engine sputtered and stopped, leaving us stranded in the river.
Panic set in as water began to seep into the car. We quickly grabbed our emergency equipment and climbed onto the roof, hoping the weight of the car would keep us from being swept away. The icy water numbed our limbs, the sound of the rushing river filled our ears. It felt like we were trapped, with no way to call for help.
Just as despair began to set in, we heard bells ringing in the distance. Looking up, we saw a group of Basotho on horseback riding down the valley. They saw our difficult situation and came to help us. With ease, they tied ropes to our cart and used horses to pull us out of the river. Their skill and courage were remarkable and we are extremely grateful for their help.
The shepherds led us to a nearby village where we were warmly welcomed. We were given dry clothes, hot food and a place to rest. The village, perched high in the mountains, was a picturesque collection of thatched-roof stone huts. Smoke rose from the chimneys and children played in the snow-covered streets. It was a scene of simple, timeless beauty and we were impressed by the resilience and kindness of the Basotho people.
After a night in the village, we were ready to continue our journey. Our vehicles were wet but still functional, and with the guidance of the shepherds, we left the mountains and returned to easier roads. The rest of the trip was uneventful, but the memory of the near disaster and the kindness of the shepherds remained with us.
As we descended the mountains and returned to Maseru, we reflected on our epic journey. The mountains of Lesotho had challenged us, tested our limits, and finally revealed their extraordinary beauty. Snow-capped peaks, winding roads and flowing rivers set the backdrop for an adventure we will never forget.
Our journey through the mountains of Lesotho was more than just a journey through beautiful scenery. It is a journey that explores both the natural world and the resilience of the human spirit. We faced adversity, but with determination and help from strangers, we made it through. Ultimately, our adventure across the Lesotho mountains showed us that even when things don’t go our way, there is always hope and often the kindness of others to help us find our way..
Photo by Tatenda Mapigoti on Unsplash
