Pure Travel
  • About
  • Destination Inspiration
  • Tips & Advice
  • Guide
  • Travel Writing
  • Cookie Policy (UK)
  • Conservation
  • Privacy
  • Travel Writing Competition 2025
  • Reviews
  • Travel Resources
  • T&C
  • Contact Us
  • Conservation
  • Privacy
  • Travel Writing Competition 2025
  • Reviews
  • Travel Resources
  • T&C
  • Contact Us
Pure Travel
Pure Travel
  • About
  • Destination Inspiration
  • Tips & Advice
  • Guide
  • Travel Writing
  • Cookie Policy (UK)

Close to Death on Lake Baikal

  • September 22, 2020
  • admin

Anya and I had just done something which still gives me nightmares when I close my eyes. It was the 20th of February, and we were adventuring deep into Siberia. The gorgeous Lake Baikal was frozen solid, and when we stood 40 metres above the ice on the most northern tip of its only island, it felt as if we were looking over the edge of the world. That should’ve been enough adventuring for one day, but I had other ideas.

Far down below, I could see the most beautiful small bay which had frozen in an astonishingly picturesque way... I knew I had to climb down. I felt confident in doing it, and any doubts in my abilities were quickly ignored when Anya seemed eager for it as well. I knew I couldn’t chicken out. At first glance it seemed fairly straightforward, but as we started to climb, the distance to the bottom seemed further and further. It soon became unimaginably dangerous when the only things to cling onto on this rock cliff were the wild plants. The frozen soil hardly anchored their roots, and these little mounds jutting out of the cliff would crumble underfoot and hand whenever too much weight was put on them. I told Anya, who was behind me, to wait as I went further down to see if it was possible to get to the bay. I could hear soil and rocks tumbling down to the ice under my foot as they became loose from the cliff. I felt at any second it would be me falling next. Then I looked back to see Anya above me and knew straight away it was impossible to climb back up. Below me, the next section was even steeper; practically vertical. I was stuck.

Panicked, I tried to scramble up, but the ground just crumbled away around my freezing fingers. It is so difficult to describe my exact feeling at this moment, but I felt my life was over. I couldn’t find a foothold or handhold which didn’t crumble, and I knew at any moment the small mound I was putting all my weight on would break away and I would fall down to the frozen rocks.

Anya saved my life in the end. I had to use Anya’s foot to climb up. This was a horrible situation because her position wasn’t much better, but she had to take all of my weight as I climbed up using her body. There were moments when I was just hanging onto her foot, unable to find sturdy ground...hanging on for my life 30 metres above jagged rocks. I have never been so scared. Climbing down was the worst decision of my life. When eventually we reached the top, my heart was thumping so hard I felt dizzy and had to lie down! Shaking like a baby and with numb hands from gripping frozen soil, Anya and I headed back to our tent, lucky to be alive.

J Fox-Powell

Share
Tweet
admin

You May Also Like
Landslide on road
View Post
  • Travel Writing

The Kakapo’s Child

  • Editor
  • March 13, 2026
French Health Insurance
View Post
  • Lifestyle

French health insurance: what travelers and expats need to know

  • Jules
  • March 13, 2026
packing for your trip
View Post
  • Tips & Advice

How to Prepare for Your Upcoming Flight

  • Jules
  • March 11, 2026
visiting Cap Salou
View Post
  • Travel Writing

Serenity Beckons at the End of the Street

  • Editor
  • March 9, 2026
Istanbul
View Post
  • Uncategorized

Istanbul Travel Guide 2026 – How to Experience the City Like a Local (and Skip the Chaos)

  • Jules
  • March 9, 2026
eSim Europe
View Post
  • Travel Resources

Best eSIM for Europe Travel: Your Complete Connectivity Guide for 2026

  • Jules
  • March 9, 2026
costa rica volcanic region
View Post
  • Destination Inspiration

Why Guided Tours Enhance Your Experience in Costa Rica’s Volcano Region

  • Jules
  • March 9, 2026
adventure park
View Post
  • Travel Resources

Airbags in Adventure Parks: Raising the Standard for Safety and Excitement

  • Jules
  • March 9, 2026
  • Landslide on road
    The Kakapo’s Child
    • March 13, 2026
  • French Health Insurance
    French health insurance: what travelers and expats need to know
    • March 13, 2026
  • packing for your trip
    How to Prepare for Your Upcoming Flight
    • March 11, 2026
  • visiting Cap Salou
    Serenity Beckons at the End of the Street
    • March 9, 2026
  • Istanbul
    Istanbul Travel Guide 2026 – How to Experience the City Like a Local (and Skip the Chaos)
    • March 9, 2026
Recent Comments
    Pure Travel
    • About
    • Destination Inspiration
    • Tips & Advice
    • Guide
    • Travel Writing
    • Cookie Policy (UK)
    A journey of a thousand miles must begin with a single step

    Input your search keywords and press Enter.

    Pure Travel
    Manage Consent
    To provide the best experiences, we use technologies like cookies to store and/or access device information. Consenting to these technologies will allow us to process data such as browsing behavior or unique IDs on this site. Not consenting or withdrawing consent, may adversely affect certain features and functions.
    Functional Always active
    The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network.
    Preferences
    The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user.
    Statistics
    The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes. The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you.
    Marketing
    The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes.
    • Manage options
    • Manage services
    • Manage {vendor_count} vendors
    • Read more about these purposes
    View preferences
    • {title}
    • {title}
    • {title}
    Pure Travel
    Manage Consent
    To provide the best experiences, we use technologies like cookies to store and/or access device information. Consenting to these technologies will allow us to process data such as browsing behavior or unique IDs on this site. Not consenting or withdrawing consent, may adversely affect certain features and functions.
    Functional Always active
    The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network.
    Preferences
    The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user.
    Statistics
    The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes. The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you.
    Marketing
    The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes.
    • Manage options
    • Manage services
    • Manage {vendor_count} vendors
    • Read more about these purposes
    View preferences
    • {title}
    • {title}
    • {title}